Introduction
I get a lot of briefcases in varying states of wear and tear. The wear and tear can range from torn parts, worn corners, broken (or even missing) handles, weak and ripped stitches, stains, burns, dry rot (see my article on how to treat dry rot and other bad problems), eaten (yes, by dogs and mice and worms!) and much more.
I specialise in sympathetic repair and restore. This means repairing an article using traditional methods and materials and keeping the patina of the article in place. The idea is to perform repairs so that they aren't seen as repairs when looking at the article.
In most cases (excuse the pun), the repair work is complex. This briefcase below for example is a double gusset briefcase with two zipped pockets, pen holders, internal notebook and business card pockets and lining.
A thing to note is that stitching - the longest part of the process - can't be done on a sewing machine. If you approach an artisan who says they can use their sewing machine to repair your beloved briefcase - run!
Briefcases are assembled and sewn together by machine in a factory. Replacing stitches with a sewing machine will create more damage. First, it is extremely difficult to make the machine needle use the exact same holes originally made during the making of the article. So, you end up with extra holes made - making the leather weaker (think perforated, tear off paper).
I have seen many articles come my way that have had bad attempts at repairs done by artisans who put a sewing machine on it. That damage is of course, irreversible.
There are some articles that I don't repair and there are some things I don't do, which are:
branded bags
lounge suites
clothing
shoes and boots
car upholstery
clothing alterations
If you want a really good artisan who can do leather clothing repairs and alterations, have a look at Leather Repair and Alterations.
Leather Repair and Alterations are specialists in leather clothing and cover recolouring, repairs, alterations, restyling, zip repairs and other related services upon request. They work with all types of leather clothing including sheepskin, fur, motorcycle leathers and much more.
Like most artisans, myself included, our services are in high demand and you should be patient as we are all flooded with work.
So, how do I repair a briefcase?
In this article:
Establish the requirement
It sounds pretty obvious, but sometimes customers don't know what can or can't be done, what the limitations are and of course, the knowledge, skills and capabilities of the leather artisan doing the repairs.
It is vital that I establish the customer's expectations. I do this through discussions with the customer, questioning, getting to understand what they want the final outcome to be.
It will be at this stage when I will decide if I can do the work expected.
There is a world of difference between 'fix the torn stitches' and 'I want my briefcase to look like it was when I got it'.
Details matter:
Look at and inspect every part of the briefcase. Look for stitches that are frayed, missing or torn, scratches, tears, worn zips, stains, etc. and discuss each with the customer. I often see things that the customer has not noticed.
Point out each of the problems with the customer and establish what they would like you to do with them.
Formulate and explain your plan with the customer. Customers don't understand your job. Explaining your plan will give the customer confidence that you know what you are doing.
Write down everything discussed and how the client wants them dealt with.
Having worked with the customer, establishing expectations and requirements and formulated my plan, I can now start the work.
Study the article
Before starting the actual work, I take time to study the article in more depth, asking myself how I will deal with each of the problems and what I will need.
I take a note of how the article is assembled. The briefcase above is made up of over 40 components! If I have to dismantle it, I have to put it back together in a specific order, especially when lining is involved. I don't want stitches showing in the lining where a piece was sewn on the opposite side.
Make a list of everything that needs to be done
I make a list of all the areas to be dealt with individually.
I note how I will deal with them and what I will need.
Formulate a plan
This is where I will write down exactly how I am going to execute the work. Now that I know what needs to be done, I can work on my plan.
For example, I may need to dismantle the whole case so that I have access to the parts that need attention. If the briefcase is lined and that needs to be replaced, there is no choice but to dismantle the entire case because the lining is stitched in.
I will list each step and tick each one off as I execute the work.
Gather the materials required
The correct thread (thickness, type and colour).
Leather, if I am replacing or using leather to line tears, etc.
The correct adhesives. (Note: I don't use adhesives as a permanent solution because it does not last. I use adhesives to hold components together when I am assembling.)
Adhesive suitable for fabric - if I have to line the briefcase with material.
I run through recommended types of lining materials, thinking about durability and style.
Dyes and colourants. Colour matching is important and I need to know which dyes to use (water based, solvent based, gel, oil based, paints). I need to know what colour the dye will be when it has dried.
Edge paint. Now, I am not a fan of edge paints, but many articles are finished with edge paint.
Finishes. Gather the right product and finish for the article. There are many products out there, but very few will yield the results I want and choosing the wrong product could ruin the article.
Step-by-step repair process
This is how I repair a briefcase...
I take photos of the article before doing any work. I can refer to them if needed when I re-assemble. Dismantling may be picking apart bits of the case, or the entire article into its individual components.
Next is cleaning. I use special products, designed to clean the leather without causing more harm. Again, there are many products out there, but I will stick to those that I know will not cause more harm than good.
Cleaning prepares me for the next stage, which is colouring and treating damage. I will use dyes that are appropriate for the type of leather. I keep in mind that I don't want a briefcase that looks brand new. I want to keep the patina, the signs of life and customers often want me to 'leave that pen mark alone' or some other 'damage' because there are memories attached.
There are memories attached to each article, each scuff, each scratch. My job is not to erase those memories.
Repair work is next. This is where I will replace stitches where required, repair tears, holes and other damages. Methods can vary depending on how I am going to deal with the damage.
Re-assembly. All repairs done, and if the case was dismantled, I now go about putting it all back together. Keep in mind, that in some scenarios, there is lining involved. So, I need to assemble in a certain order, so that the lining goes on after certain parts stitched on first.
At every stage I check the quality of the work. If the briefcase had to be dismantled to affect the repairs, then it is best to check the quality and remediate any issues as I go along and before re-assembling. I will not be able to access all parts of the case once it is assembled.
The Finishing Touches
The first thing I do here is inspect every aspect of the briefcase and look for any quality issues.
I also test the briefcase to ensure functionality, especially the clasp and straps to ensure they are properly aligned and that they work.
I will ensure that the briefcase is clean (no dust and debris has been left behind from the work done.
My last part of the work is polishing and sealing. I like my briefcases to have a healthy shine and be water resistant.
Educate the customer
Now I am ready to hand the article back to the customer.
I have not come across a customer who was not interested in what work was done and how I did it! I spend time letting them know some of the details of what was done, ensuring I have addressed and met the customer's expectations.
I will also suggest ways to maintain the briefcase, providing regular cleaning and care tips to extend lifespan and give storage and handling suggestions to prevent future wear.
Conclusion
Repairing briefcases sound simple. But in my experience, they never are. They require a good knowledge of the types of leather used, special skills to repair them and a lot of patience and time.
The briefcases that come my way have a sentimental value and meaning to the customers. I am deeply conscious that they want to keep the memories alive. I have had briefcases that have been handed down, others that are over 100 years old and others that were gifted by parents or spouses or family.
I get a great sense of achievement when I return a briefcase that needed the care and attention it deserved. It is always touching and a privilege when a customer chooses and entrusts me to work on their treasured item.
Let me help you keep your memories alive.
Contact me, and let's have a discussion.
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