Leather Care

How to care for your leather goods

Prevention is better than cure...

With proper care, vegetable tanned leather can last many decades. And like a fine whiskey, it will only become more valuable and unique the longer you have it. Proper care will help your articles last longer and create that aged patina that is unique to leather and gives the article that aged look and character.

If in Doubt, Don't

There are a lot of articles you can find on the Internet about how to treat and care for leather, and a majority of them are bad advice.

The hardest part of deciding how your leather should be treated is identifying what type of leather the article is made from.

There are also occasions where an article is so old it can't be restored. In these cases, I will always suggest "Conservation" rather than repair and restore.

There are certain oils you must not use. This is because oil oxidises and weakens the fibres of the leather, to a point where the leather will actually become so soft it will just tear easily.

There are treatments that will seal the leather, which in some cases you don't want since some leathers needs to breath and need to be fed. Once leather is sealed, it can not be fed and treated.

If you have an article that you want repaired, restored or conserved and are not sure about proper treatment, contact me and I will be able to help.

Caring for Vegetable Tanned Leather

Unlike chrome tanned leather, most veg tanned leather does not come pre-treated with oils and waxes. The fibers will react to water by stiffening and shrinking. Veg tanned leather is sensitive to high heat and can crack if heated to extreme temperatures.

Keep veg tanned leather away from water - unless it is really well treated.
Do not use a blow dryer or heat gun on leather and do not store the leather in an excessively hot area.
Use a good quality leather balm to keep your leather in good health

Caring for Suede and Spit Leather

Blot off any wet stains as soon as possible. Place a paper towel on the stain, then add a weight on top to press the stain into the absorbent towel.
Small, dry stains may be able to be erased with a clean pencil eraser.
Rub stains that are set with white vinegar and a damp towel.
Do not use chemical stain removers on suede.
Use a fingernail file to gently rasp away any scuff marks or lumps that you cannot get off.
Use a suede brush or a clean bath towel to rub the suede gently to bring back the normal texture of the suede.
Make sure that you keep your suede away from direct sunlight for extended periods of time.

Beyond this simple at-home stain removal, you must be careful when cleaning suede. Damage from cleaners and even simple soap is irreversible. It’s always best to take the suede to a professional dry cleaner. Suede is also susceptible to damage when being stored or transported. The soft leather is easily scratched. When storing or transporting your suede garments, place them in a pillowcase before storing them. Store in a dark place where it will not fade, and make sure it is completely dry before storing it if you have tried to clean it.

Aniline and Bonded Leather

Prevention is better than cure with aniline leather. Waterproof protection is the best option if you want to avoid stains. The protectant comes with a mist spray applicator allowing you to gently spray a layer onto of the leather without it soaking in. This will then provide a barrier giving you crucial time to wipe any spillages off before they soak in. If you do get a stain, Aniline cleaner will break down dirt and help to dilute the spillage, this allows you to draw out the stain, but care must be taken and scrubbing the leather is only advised if absolutely necessary.

Most of the products I make will be well finished to resist water. To keep your leather product "alive", soft, supple and to help it last a lifetime, the best product to use is a beeswax/sweet almond/coco butter/Linseed oil mix. Polish it on generously then wipe it off with a soft polishing cloth.

Summary

Leather needs to be fed, protected and cared for. I recommend using a high quality, leather balm applied liberally and brushed into the leather on a regular basis. Buff with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Heavy rain will creep in between the stitching/lacing in the case of outdoor products. Thumbing natural bees wax into the stitching will help waterproof the product.
Leather cuts, scratches, marks and scrapes easily. Keep keys and other hard/sharp objects away from the product.
If used on motorcycle saddles and because leather is pliable, it will shape to your body over time as you use the bike. There is no way of preventing this.
Do not use soaps or any cleaning agents, including "leather cleaning" products on the saddle. Using a damp cloth will suffice, especially if you are polishing regularly.